FPW: Contemporary fashion at its best

Pakistan fashion industry is going places and that fact can be gauged from the recently concluded Fashion Pakistan Week, which proved to be one of the most memorable events of this year till date. The sixth edition of FPW 2014 held in Karachi was a huge success considering that it was attended by a large number of representatives of business organisations, traders, fashion designers, fashion design students and fashionistas.

FPW 2014 organised by Fashion Pakistan Council and HUM Sitaray, in association with Toni & Guy, TDAP, Bank AlFalah, Nestle Everyday and Nishat Linen took off in a magnificent way.

HSY, Pakistan’s premier fashion designer and world renowned model, opened the show with his latest collection for this spring and summer. HSY is one of the most sought-after luxury fashion house that's more than just a label. HSY couture boasts of distinctive Pakistani and Middle Eastern designs peppered with western influences which are augmented by stunning colours and refined cuts. This unique synthesis and design philosophy by HSY has played an important role in carving a niche for designers round the globe.

HSY’s stunning opening collection paved the way for upcoming designers participating in Bank Alfalah Graduate Show. Eight new and upcoming designers exhibited their talent and creativity in this segment. 

Next presentation was by Lala Textiles. With a versatile array of silhouettes, Lala Textiles brought to the runway an eclectic mix of fashion, combining the ethnic and vibrant lawn prints of Lala Textiles with the young pret wear aesthetic for a more contemporary look.

Next to show was Aamna Aqeel who gained massive recognition and following when she made her debut at FPW 5 where she presented stunning leather, silk and stud-embossed collections. Aamna has since dressed celebrities and branded commercials. Aamna is transforming fashion from an elite craft into a corner-stone of contemporary popular culture for women not just in Pakistan but round the globe.

The first act of the day ended with an eclectic collection by Nida Azwer who has been designing and working in fashion under the aegis of her eponymous label since 2005, only one month after she graduated from the prestigious Indus Valley School of Art & Architecture. Nida Azwer’s label has come to be recognized for the designer’s love of the more classic and vintage design elements infused with our traditional crafts such as ‘tukri ka kaam’, ‘rilli’, ‘kantha’, 'zardozi' and miniature embroidery worked into contemporary fashion silhouettes manifest in the collections she has showcased at her debut solo show and across various fashion weeks and exhibits.

Act 2 of Day 1 was opened by critically-acclaimed international designer Deepak Perwani. Deepak's contribution to fashion, through his creativity and innovation, has been commended within Pakistan and recognised the world over. He is equally comfortable in producing award-winning eastern wear as he is in cutting-edge western designs. He has been instrumental in not only modernising Pakistan's fashion, but also the aesthetic sensibilities of its people.

Levi’s came in next to showcase their Commuter, COOLMAX and ICONS Collection. The Commuter series by Levi’s is designed to take the urban worker from their a.m. ride, through the workday and into evening. Levi’s also exhibited their new project, COOLMAX, an innovative collection designed to keep you cool through thermo-regulating fibres that draws moisture away from the body, dries quickly and enables the fabric to breathe. The brand also showed their ICONS collection with western shirts and trucker jackets that have been tested by generations.

Zainab Chotani displayed her talent after the funky ramp show by Levi’s. With her achievements in fashion beyond description, Zainab Chottani’s name is enough to symbolize high-end style. Breathtaking bridals are her forte. Intricate embellishments along with her unique way of playing with colours have set her apart from the rest of the Pakistani fashion industry. Zainab Chottani has acquired a well-deserved reputation for her bridals globally.

The first day ended with a grand presentation by renowned fashion icon Adnan Pardesi who launched his label in 2007. Adnan Pardesy defines his design philosophy as minimalistic. He employs structure and architecture as inspiration for his design.

On second day Fahad Hussayn enthralled the attendees with his unique sense of colours and cuts. The range focuses on grandeur in terms of designs and aesthetics. The designer presented Trousseau collection, an exquisite couture bridal-wear.

The popular make-up brand Maybelline came up next. Models walked on the ramp with contemporary make-up for work and parties. The audience also witnessed latest trends in bridal make-up.

The next showing was of Naushemian by Nauman Arfeen. Nauman Arfeen’s couture ranges from exclusively designed ‘sherwanis’ to top-of-the-line royal turbans that ensure a strong following for the designer. ‘Haute after Dark’ by Nauman Arfeen was inspired by Persian art called ‘Persian pickles’.

Pakistan’s leading leather brand Jafferjees ended the First Act of Day Two with their latest products. Jafferjees spring/summer 2014 collection featured clutches, handbags and travel bags that were crafted with sophisticated details. Jafferjees collection offered mixed textures and patterns including ostrich-print and cross-stitch to delight the most demanding enthusiasts of fine leather.

The Second Act of Day 2 started with a colourful and funky collection by Gulabo. Since its inception in 2005, Maheen Khan’s brainchild, Gulabo has grown to become one of the biggest brands in prêt business in Pakistan. Gulabo is a tribute to everything born and bred in Pakistan. Pure truck art-inspired motifs and patterns portray the love of Gulabo for Pakistan and modern ‘desi’ culture.

This exciting show was followed by models exhibiting artistic wear by Innaya. Inaaya is a pioneering concept in ethical fashion, combining classic inimitable techniques with artisanal production. Inaaya utilizes skilled workers to create unique, flawless fashion pieces and hand-made goods which are now finding an audience globally with receptive customers, eager for differentiation, embracing the ‘one-of-a-kind-finds’ trend, especially in fashion, home goods and soft furnishings industries.

This year FPW also highlighted the upcoming retail brand, SHEEP. SHEEP offers ready-to-wear designer couture to cater to modern day women. The couture offers smart casuals, work-wear, luxury prêt, Black SHEEP and SHEEP Man. The clothing range is complemented by chic accessories with original designs that are mostly influenced by nature.

The Act culminated with a grand showing by Shamaeel Ansari. Shamaeel's style focuses on magnificence and grandeur. While her couture is luxuriant and distinctly bordering on the regal, her new prêt is a cluster of price-sensitive high fashion that leaves a unique stamp of ingenuity on a mixture of fabrics. Her earlier flamboyance has been replaced with elegant mellowness with a sense of mystery.  

Act one of Day 3 started with a bang with an eye-catching and funky collection by Tapulicious featuring Kamiar Rokni, HSY and Mohsin Ali. The ensembles were inspired by colourful and repetitive patterns of traditional ‘shamiana’ tents. The prints and bags were based on silk paintings and artistry of a famous Japanese artist, and Tapu’s aunt, Mariam Syedullah. Each print contained hundreds of miniscule photographs of Karachi that were put into artistic stitch by House of Kamiar Rokni. The second collection of Tapu featured Mondrian-style colour blocking that was crafted into garments by the very talented Mohsin Ali. The third and final selection was inspired by current trends with a monochromatic look at the animal world. Tapu used zebra and leopard prints layered alongside chevron stripes and kaleidoscopic colour creating a fresh look at an old classic.

The vibrant collection of Tapulicious was followed by an elegant showcase by Maleeha C. Nasir’s label Daaman. Maleeha C. Nasir has been involved in the fashion business for over a decade. She started modelling during her undergraduate days at LUMS. Maleeha took the plunge into designing in 2009 by launching her acclaimed ready-to-wear label “Daaman”.

The third act of Show One was presented by Gul Ahmed, a household name that represents the retail textile industry of Pakistan. Over the years, Gul Ahmed has emerged as a complete solution for fashion and regular wear. The diversified brand encompasses everything under one umbrella including lawn prints, ‘khaddar’, chiffon, silk and designer lawn suits.

Show one ended with Ali Xeeshan’s exquisite stitch-work that was based on conventional materials with unorthodox aesthetics. Ali Xeeshan is also renowned for his bridal couture that circles around the ethnic background of Pakistan.

The second show of Day Three started with an elegant collection by Wardha Saleem. Wardha Saleem is another prodigy produced by Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture who mastered the art of fashion and textile designing.

Mahin Hussain was next to show her talent to fashion gurus. Her collection was based on the poetry of the late Parveen Shakir. Mahin Hussain specializes in leather and canvas handbags. The designs were simple yet bold. The label boasts of a very patriotic line of canvas bags that featured quotes from Quaid-e-Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah and arresting lyrics from songs of Madam Noor Jehan.  

Upcoming and promising designer, Faraz Manan, carried forward the show with his lively collection based on western aesthetics with eastern sensibilities.

The grand finale was by the renowned fashion icon Nomi Ansari who showcased a magnificent collection. In under a decade, the Nomi Ansari brand has become one of the most sought-after labels in Pakistan. Nomi Ansari grabbed attention with his ultra-vibrant palette. His clothes were fun and funky, and at the same time had a distinctly ethnic touch that appealed to tastes from across the spectrum. His highly inventive colour combinations and detailed craftsmanship with intricate embellishments have become his signature style.

Fashion Pakistan Week 2014 is being choreographed by HSY & Productions with back stage management by Production [021] & show production by CKO. Make-up and hair-style on Day One was by Sab’s Salon, on Day 2 by Depilex and on Day 3 by Nabila’s .Tapu Javeri has been engaged for all official photography for the event while PR of the event has been undertaken by the PR department of HUM Network Ltd.

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